In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

• Cafe Culture: La Palette – More Than a Brush with the Bohemian

• Hidden Gems: On the Trail of Melody - La Maison de Serge Gainsbourg

• Travel Tips: Marketplace Mastery - Navigating Parisian Farmers' Markets

• Art & Literature: Montparnasse Cemetery - A Place of Eternal Rest for Literary Giants

• Inspiring Stories: Le Mur des Je t’aime (Wall of Love) - A Testament to Love and Unity in Montmartre

• A Peek Into History: Montmartre - From Bohemian Retreat to Bustling Heartbeat of Paris

• Your Questions Answered: Summer Essentials for Paris

• Featured French Song of The Week: La Javanaise by Serge Gainsbourg

Found in Paris - Fun & Useful Stuff From The Web

➡️ List of Paris Open Air Food Markets HERE

➡️ Top Paris Concerts: 2023 HERE️

➡️ 26 Best Walking Shoes for Travel - Condé Nast Traveler HERE️

Cafe Culture: La Palette – More Than a Brush with the Bohemian

Welcome to your weekly caffeine-infused detour into Parisian café life. Today, we're sauntering over to Saint-Germain-des-Prés, a neighborhood with its fair share of paint-splattered overalls and wild-eyed poets. Nestled within its labyrinthine lanes is La Palette, a café slinging espresso and hearty fare since the bohemian era.

La Palette, with its worn-out charm and unshakeable coolness, is a relic of the Paris that once was, frequented by artists, students from the nearby Beaux-Arts school, and cinema stars. Its Art Deco interior and extensive outdoor terrace are practically a magnet for any self-respecting flâneur. The zinc counter inside? It's older than your grandmother's secret family recipes and probably has more stories to tell.

La Palette carries an air of nostalgia. It's the kind of place where you half-expect to turn around and see Hemingway nursing (or slogging) a "Death In The Afternoon" (Hemingway’s Sparkling Absinthe Cocktail) a weathered notebook under his arm. But, not all its claims to fame are in the distant past. Remember when Taylor Swift decided to shoot a music video for her heart-tugging ballad, 'Begin Again', right in this iconic brasserie back in 2012? Oh yeah, Swifties, she left her mark here too.

Taylor Swift filmed a music video in La Palette in 2012 for her song Begin Again.

So, slide into a wooden seat, order their famed Croque Monsieur, arguably the best in the city, and let the ambiance whisk you away. Get lost in the timeless melodies of Swift, the clink of coffee cups, and the low hum of Parisian conversation. Because here, at La Palette, the past isn't history – it's just another layer of paint, adding depth and charm to your Parisian experience.

La Palette Paris - Website

Hidden Gems: On the Trail of Melody - La Maison de Serge Gainsbourg

In the charming heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, there's a house that tells a tale not found in most guidebooks. La Maison de Serge Gainsbourg, an unassuming place at 5 bis Rue de Verneuil, once housed the mind behind France's most provocative and influential music.

Serge Gainsbourg, the iconic French singer-songwriter, lived a life as intriguing as his music. Known for his poetic audacity and scandalous performances, Gainsbourg was a living testament to artistic liberation. Though the house isn't open to the public, the graffiti-laden exterior is a testament to the musician's enduring influence.

"Ugliness is superior to beauty because it lasts longer." - Serge Gainsbourg

The graffitied façade, an ever-evolving mosaic of artistic expressions, is a sight to behold. Strolling past, you might see a quote from one of Gainsbourg's songs, a portrait, or a heartfelt message from a fan. Each layer of paint and ink tells a story about a man who left an indelible mark on French music and culture.

So, don your best pair of walking shoes, get your camera ready, and take a detour into a lesser-known slice of Parisian history. La Maison de Serge Gainsbourg – a shrine to one of France's greatest artists, hidden in plain sight in the bustling city of Paris.

Travel Tips: Marketplace Mastery - Navigating Parisian Farmers' Markets

Like a well-versed conductor directing an orchestra, a savvy Parisian shopper navigates the rhythm and tempo of the city's vibrant farmers' markets. With a discerning eye and an early wake-up call, they embark on a quest for the finest French produce. If you fancy joining this dance, here's a crash course in marketplace mastery.

In Paris, each market carries its own melody. The organic market on Boulevard Raspail sings of health-conscious trendsetters and a selection of fresh, organic produce that would make any foodie swoon. Then there's the grand Marché Bastille, its aria resonating with the diverse cultures and flavors of the city.

Master the language of the market. Politeness is king here – a simple "Bonjour, Madame" or "Bonjour, Monsieur" can open doors (and crates of the freshest fruits!). Always wait your turn, no touching unless permitted, and remember - haggling isn’t part of the dance here.

To pick the best produce, tune into your senses. Fresh vegetables and fruits are vibrant, free from blemishes, and often still caked with a bit of earth. When it comes to cheese, don't be put off by a strong smell – that's the siren song of authentic French fromage (cheese).

Finally, don't forget to explore the unique finds. Each market has its showstoppers – artisanal honey at Raspail, and sumptuous crêpes at Bastille.

Navigating Paris's farmers' markets is an art form, and like all good artists, it's about finding your style and rhythm amidst the hustle and bustle. With these tips, you're ready to sashay into the grand performance of Parisian marketplace shopping. Enjoy the dance!

List of Food & Specialist Markets From The Paris Tourist Office Official Website

Art & Literature: Montparnasse Cemetery: A Place of Eternal Rest for Literary Giants

In the bustling heart of the Left Bank lies an oasis of calm and serenity: the Montparnasse Cemetery. Unlike any ordinary cemetery, Montparnasse is a final resting place for some of the greatest luminaries of literature, making it a must-visit for every book lover in Paris.

Walking through the neat rows of tombstones, one is instantly enveloped in an air of solemn tranquility, punctuated by the occasional chirping of birds. The tombstones, each with its unique design, reveal the names that have shaped the world of art and literature. Charles Baudelaire, the celebrated poet whose verses have left an indelible imprint on French literature, finds his eternal rest here. So does Guy de Maupassant, the master of the short story form, and Samuel Beckett, the pioneer of the Theatre of the Absurd.

Among the many famous graves, you'll find the simple stone slab marking the resting place of Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre, the power couple of French existentialism. It's a sobering experience, standing at the grave of the author whose works you might have cherished, mulling over the inevitable end that awaits us all.

Visiting the Montparnasse Cemetery isn't just about paying homage to your favorite authors. It's also about experiencing this place's profound tranquility, a stark contrast to the lively city outside its walls. Here, amidst the silent gravestones, you might just find the perfect spot for quiet reflection or, perhaps, some literary inspiration of your own. After all, in their myriad complexities, literature and life are intrinsically linked with death. And in the silence of Montparnasse, one can find echoes of all three.

Inspiring Stories: Le Mur des Je t’aime (Wall of Love): A Testament to Love and Unity in Montmartre

Nestled in the heart of Montmartre, a district as romantic as the city itself, stands a unique monument that boldly professes love in its universal form – "Le Mur des Je t’aime" or the "Wall of Love."

This humble yet profound, blue-tiled wall speaks a language we all understand: the language of love. Engraved with 'I love you' in over 250 languages, from the widespread tongues of English, Spanish, and Mandarin to the exotic dialects of far-flung tribes, it whispers silent endearments to all who pass by.

This captivating work of art was conceived by Frederic Baron, who began the project in the late 90s by asking his friends to write 'I love you' in their native languages. Soon, he was receiving declarations of love from embassies and foreign institutes, each entry a testament to the universal nature of this profound emotion.

The red splashes across the tiles represent the broken pieces of a human heart, reinforcing the reality that love and heartbreak often go hand in hand. But it's a reminder, too, that love transcends borders, languages, and cultures, binding us all in a shared human experience.

Visiting Le Mur des Je t’aime is not just about seeing the words 'I love you' in multiple languages; it's about experiencing the collective emotion of humanity poured onto a single wall. It’s an invitation to take a moment, reflect on our shared capacity for love, and appreciate the ties that bind us together in this chaotic world. As you stand in front of the wall, let the mosaic of affection wash over you, and remember, no matter where you are from or what language you speak, love is universal.

A Peek Into History: Montmartre - From Bohemian Retreat to Bustling Heartbeat of Paris

Often recognized by the gleaming white domes of Sacré-Cœur perched at its summit, Montmartre has a fascinating narrative that's as multi-layered as its winding, hilly streets. Today's bustling hub of creativity was once an unsung bohemian retreat, home to artists, writers, and dreamers who colored the Parisian cultural fabric.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when much of Paris underwent a rapid transformation under Baron Haussmann's renovations, Montmartre remained a countryside village within the city limits. This offered a low-cost haven for artists, the famous “Bohemian Paris," away from the prying eyes of the city. It became a hotbed for creativity and the birthplace of movements like Impressionism and Cubism. Artists such as Van Gogh, Picasso, and Toulouse-Lautrec called Montmartre home, inspired by its unfettered spirit and unspoiled views of Paris.

But Montmartre's allure wasn't just the affordability or the breathtaking vistas—it was the vibrant community. Artists, musicians, and writers gathered in its cafes and bars, engaging in heated debates, sharing ideas, and often living and working side by side in shared ateliers.

With time, Montmartre transformed, much like the city below it. As the 20th century marched on, the once-rustic village became more entwined with the city. Its artistic past paved the way for becoming a cultural landmark, celebrated for its bohemian heritage. The Sacré-Cœur basilica, completed in 1914, drew crowds and firmly established Montmartre on the tourist map.

Today, Montmartre is a bustling neighborhood, its streets filled with charming cafes, shops, and art studios. It's a blend of old and new, where history rubs shoulders with modernity. The spirit of the bohemian artists who once roamed its streets still lingers, making Montmartre a testament to Paris's enduring love affair with the arts. So when you visit, take a moment to soak in the view and imagine the echoes of animated artists' conversations floating on the breeze. In Montmartre, you're not just in a neighborhood but in the beating heart of Parisian history.

Your Questions Answered: Summer Essentials for Paris

This week, we've received a great question: "What should I pack for a summer visit to Paris?" Ah, summer in Paris - the days are long, sunsets are late (around 10 pm!), and the city is alive with activity. However, packing for the Parisian summer can be a bit tricky due to the city's varied climate. Let's break it down.

Light, breathable clothing is essential. Paris can get quite hot in the summer, particularly in July and August. Pack light dresses, linen shirts, shorts, and skirts. But don't forget a lightweight cardigan or pashmina, as it can get a little chilly during the evening, particularly if you're near the Seine.

An important point to remember is that many Parisian apartments don't have air conditioning. So, it's essential to pack light sleepwear to ensure a comfortable night's sleep during those warmer nights. Natural fibers like cotton and silk are excellent choices.

Always carry a travel-sized umbrella. Summer showers can be sudden and unpredictable in Paris. An umbrella in your bag can be a lifesaver when those surprise rain showers hit.

For footwear, comfort is key. After all, one of the best ways to see Paris is on foot. For women, stylish sandals or espadrilles are perfect for summer. For men, loafers or breathable canvas shoes are a great option. Remember, Parisians tend to keep their footwear chic and clean, so avoid overly athletic or flashy sneakers if you want to blend in.

Don't forget a hat and sunglasses to protect yourself from the summer sun. Apart from protecting your eyes, sunglasses can add a bit of stylish flair to your outfit.

Given the late sunset during the summer months, don't be surprised if you're heading to dinner while it's still light outside. It's one of the charming quirks of a Parisian summer that makes the days feel endless.

Last but not least, always carry a bottle of water to stay hydrated, especially during sweltering days. There are numerous public water fountains around the city where you can refill your bottle.

Stay chic and enjoy the summer in the City of Light!

Fun Fact: Wallace Fountains, seen on the streets of Paris, have been dispensing clean drinking water to residents and visitors for 150 years. Learn more about them HERE.

Featured French Song:

La Javanaise (French/English) Lyrics Serge Gainsbourg