In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

• Café Culture: Vins des Pyrénées, Resurrected

• Hidden Gems: The Verdant Oasis of Parc des Buttes-Chaumont

• Travel Tips: Cruising the Seine – The Quintessential Parisian Experience

• Inspiring Stories: La Petite Ceinture - From Railway to Oasis

• Art & Literature: In Search of Marcel Proust's Paris

• A Peek into History: Echoes of Bohemia in Saint-Germain-des-Prés

• Fun and Unusual Stuff: The Whimsical Side of Parisian Law

• Your Questions Answered: Unique Parisian Experiences Off the Beaten Path

• Featured French Song: Françoise Hardy "Tous les garçons et les filles"

Found in Paris - Fun & Useful Stuff From The Web

➡️ A Guild to French Cheese - Here is a guide to French cheese on the Expactica website: "A guide to the aromatic world of French cheese."

➡️ Virtual Tour of The Catacombs - This isn't for everyone, but if you're interested, you can find a virtual tour of the Catacombs on the official Paris website. The cost is 5€. Alternatively, you may be interested in a video I found on YouTube - a History Channel documentary on The Catabombs.

➡️ Context Paris Tours - While I haven't taken any of their tours yet, I continue to receive great feedback from people who have. Even if you're not in the market for a Paris tour, perusing the options is fun and inspiring.

Café Culture: Vins des Pyrénées, Resurrected

Vins des Pyrénées Website

Hear that? That's the heart of Paris beating. And it's strongest at Vins des Pyrénées, a cherished institution nestled within the Marais. With roots tracing back to 1905, this establishment is far more than just wood and golden letters. It's a living chronicle of the city, brought to life by a Catalan engineer, enriched by the famous faces who frequented it, and now reborn in the hands of an actor-turned-restaurateur.

Having amassed a fortune from an ingenious invention to prevent wine oxidation, the engineer started Vins des Pyrénées as a wine hub, importing flavors from the Pyrenees and Algeria. The location, a stone's throw from the homes of Paul Cézanne, Charles Baudelaire, and a regular haunt for the likes of Jim Morrison, added an eclectic aura that still lingers today.

Even as the doors closed, the heart of Vins des Pyrénées never stopped beating. Enter Florian Cadiou, who reignited its spirit, infusing life back into this historic gem. The sleek interior, echoing the past with its wooden bar and banquet seating, is now alive with the hum of conversation, the clink of glasses, and the aroma of dishes that remind you why you fell in love with Paris.

Under Chef Jimmy Reffet's stewardship, classic French comfort food gets a modern twist. Dishes like roast lamb croquettes and truffle-gouda croque-monsieur pull you back to the golden era of Parisian bistros while pushing the culinary envelope. And when evening descends, there's Le 1905, a tucked-away speakeasy where you can toast to the stars of Paris with their intriguing cocktail offerings.

Vins des Pyrénées is more than just a restaurant. It's the rhythm of Paris, a dance between the past and present. And when you step inside, you're not just a spectator—you're part of the performance. So next time you're in the Marais, listen for the beat. You'll find it at Vins des Pyrénées.

Hidden Gems: The Verdant Oasis of Parc des Buttes-Chaumont

In the heart of the 19th arrondissement, away from the well-trodden tourist paths, lies one of Paris's finest kept secrets – Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. It's a place where the city's ceaseless hum subsides, replaced by the whispering of trees and the carefree laughter of locals enjoying a rare slice of serenity.

Created during the reign of Napoleon III and unveiled at the 1867 World's Fair, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is not your ordinary Parisian park. Instead of the usual formal French gardens, you'll find a more romantic English-style landscape, a departure as unexpected as it is refreshing.

Picture lush green hills sprinkled with a mix of exotic and native trees and a sprawling lake punctuated by a rocky island towering at its center. On the island stands the belvedere known as the "Temple de la Sibylle," offering a panoramic view over Paris that can rival any.

In this verdant oasis, you'll discover meandering trails that invite you to lose yourself amongst nature. Walk over the bridges, including a 63-meter-high suspension bridge, and experience the park from different perspectives. From the flat plains where Parisians picnic and play to the steepest cliffs that challenge joggers, this park will make you forget you're in the middle of one of the busiest cities in the world.

But perhaps the most charming part of Parc des Buttes-Chaumont lies not in its physical beauty but in its authenticity as a cherished local hangout. Families, joggers, picnickers, or lovers whispering sweet nothings under the willow trees - they're all drawn to the park's laid-back allure, painting a tableau of Parisian life that's as real as it gets.

So, next time you're in Paris and the city's noise becomes a tad too much, remember Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Find your way to this hidden gem, find a spot under a tree, and find a moment's peace amidst the Parisian pulse. Trust me; it's an experience you wouldn't want to miss.

Travel Tips: Cruising the Seine – The Quintessential Parisian Experience

Few experiences encapsulate the magic of Paris as eloquently as a leisurely cruise down the Seine. With the city's iconic landmarks unfolding around each bend of the river, a Seine cruise feels like you've stepped into a living postcard of Paris. But with so many options, how do you choose the right cruise for you? Here are a few tips:

1. Timing is Everything: Consider the time of day for your cruise. A daytime cruise offers sparkling, sun-drenched city views, while a nighttime cruise unveils the 'City of Light' in all its illuminated glory. For the romantics among you, a sunset cruise captures Paris in that golden hour when the city seems to blush under the setting sun.

2. Picking the Perfect Cruise: Not all Seine cruises are created equal. Some offer guided tours, others play soothing music, and some maintain a tranquil silence allowing the city's beauty to speak for itself. Consider your mood and preference when choosing. For the history buffs, a narrated cruise could be a moving history lesson.

3. Dinner on the Seine: If you fancy a meal with your sights, several cruises offer lunch or dinner options. Imagine dining on classic French cuisine while gliding past Notre Dame or the Louvre. It's an unforgettable experience, though a bit pricier than your regular cruise.

4. Sparkling Eiffel: Try to time your cruise so that you're near the Eiffel Tower on the hour after sunset. Watching the Eiffel Tower burst into a mesmerizing display of twinkling lights from the water is a sight that'll stay with you long after your Parisian journey ends.

Remember, a Seine cruise is not about getting from point A to point B. It's about slowing down, savoring the moment, and immersing yourself in the city's timeless beauty. It's about feeling the pulse of Paris from its lifeblood – the Seine. So, kick back, relax, and let the city of love charm you from the river.

Inspiring Stories: La Petite Ceinture - From Railway to Oasis

In the bustling heart of Paris, a phoenix is rising from the ashes of the city's industrial past. This phoenix is La Petite Ceinture, the "little belt" railway that once girdled Paris, bringing goods and passengers from one district to the next. Closed since 1934, this rail artery of the City of Light had lain dormant for decades, a rusted relic of a bygone era, untouched, unseen, and forgotten.

But Paris, a city with a flair for turning the old into the extraordinary, had other plans for La Petite Ceinture. A green revolution is taking place here, as sections of this former railway are being transformed into public spaces and urban gardens, creating an unexpected ribbon of green in the cityscape.

Today, La Petite Ceinture is a haven of biodiversity, home to over 200 species of plants and wildlife. But beyond its ecological significance, it also serves as a communal backyard for Parisians, a place for neighbors to connect, for children to play, for artists to seek inspiration, and for everyone to enjoy a moment of tranquility away from the city's relentless rhythm.

As you amble along the path, with the rusted tracks beside you and the city's hum muted, you'll stumble upon pockets of urban culture thriving amidst the foliage. From tiny cafes serving espresso in the morning sun to pop-up art installations nestled amongst the undergrowth, La Petite Ceinture marries the urban and the natural, creating a space that is uniquely Parisian.

The story of La Petite Ceinture is one of resilience and reinvention. It is a testament to Paris's ability to honor its past while continually evolving and adapting. As we stroll its paths, we're reminded that even in the heart of the city, nature finds a way to flourish, and in the forgotten corners of our world, there's always room for rebirth and growth.

Art & Literature: In Search of Marcel Proust's Paris

Paris and literature have a storied relationship, and few authors have painted this city with words as vividly as Marcel Proust. One of the greatest novelists of the 20th century, Proust spent a significant part of his life immersed in the swirling Parisian society, capturing its subtleties, textures, and changing seasons in his magnum opus, "In Search of Lost Time."

"Remembrance of things past is not necessarily the remembrance of things as they were." – Marcel Proust

The Paris Proust knew, however, was one of privilege and high society. His family's wealth and status gave him access to the elegant salons of the French aristocracy, where he keenly observed the social theater that would later inform his work. The grand boulevards, the manicured gardens, the ornate drawing rooms - they all served as the canvas for Proust's explorations of memory, time, and the intricacies of human nature.

"In Search of Lost Time" is a tour de force, a narrative that unspools itself in labyrinthine sentences, where a taste, a smell, a glimpse can trigger a torrent of recollections. It's in these delicate sensory experiences that Proust's Paris comes alive. A certain kind of biscuit soaked in tea - the famous madeleine - can whisk us to a time when horse-drawn carriages rattled down cobbled streets and gas lamps flickered in the twilight.

But Proust's work also captures a Paris that is universal and timeless. It is the city of quiet moments, heartfelt conversations, first loves, and profound disappointments. Whether it's the radiant stonework of Saint-Sulpice under the morning sun, the spectral beauty of the Bois de Boulogne in the evening, or the comforting aroma of a hot drink in a sidewalk café, Proust's Paris is one that any Parisian - indeed, anyone who has loved and lost in this city - will recognize.

"The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes." - Marcel Proust

Marcel Proust once wrote, "The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes." As we delve into his work, we're invited not just to see Paris, but to perceive it, to experience it in all its multilayered glory - a city of light, of love, of lingering memories and fleeting moments, forever captured in the labyrinth of Proust's prose.

A Peek into History: Echoes of Bohemia in Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Step into Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and you're stepping into a chapter of Paris that still hums with the echoes of jazz and the intellectual fervor of a bygone era. This district, once the epicenter of Paris's bohemian and existentialist movements, is a testament to a time when the city was a melting pot of artists, musicians, thinkers, and dreamers, all drawn to the allure of the Left Bank.

"I can't tell you what to expect, but go out there and let Paris surprise you!" – Anthony Bourdain

At its heart, the eponymous Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés stands with an air of serene endurance; its foundations seeped in more than a thousand years of history. But our tale today is rooted in a more recent past, specifically the heady decades following the Second World War.

In the 1940s and 50s, Saint-Germain-des-Prés was the playground of the existentialists, a group of philosophers and writers who sought to redefine the meaning of life in a world riddled with uncertainty. Their musings found expression in the neighborhood's countless cafés and jazz clubs, places like Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore, where the likes of Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre engaged in fierce debates over steaming cups of coffee.

As the nights drew in, the district pulsed with a different energy. Jazz, that vibrant, visceral symphony of rhythm and improvisation, became the soundtrack of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Hallowed clubs like Le Tabou and Caveau de la Huchette were filled with the revolutionary music of Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie, and Louis Armstrong, their notes spilling out into the narrow, cobblestoned streets, the very air seeming to thrum with the spirit of freedom and rebellion.

Even today, as you stroll through Saint-Germain-des-Prés, you can feel the residual thrills of those bohemian days. The cafés, though now frequented by tourists, still resonate with passionate conversations, and the jazz clubs, albeit quieter, echo with the whispers of a golden age. And if you listen closely, amidst the chatter and the music, you might just hear the ghostly murmurings of a question posed by the existentialists all those years ago - what does it mean, after all, to truly live?

In the end, Saint-Germain-des-Prés isn't just a district. It's a living, breathing chronicle of a city that, no matter the era, remains eternally young, perpetually questioning, and always, always fascinating.

Fun and Unusual Stuff: The Whimsical Side of Parisian Law

Paris, the city of romance and revolution, is renowned for its grandeur, art, and enticing café culture. But beneath this façade of elegance and tradition, the city hides a treasure trove of peculiarities. For this edition, we dive into the realm of the whimsical and absurd: Parisian laws that, believe it or not, still exist today.

1. Bathing in Fountains: On a hot summer day in Paris, the city's numerous fountains might seem like tempting spots for a quick dip. But think again! A decree from 1807, still in force, prohibits bathing in fountains and canals. So much for an impromptu urban beach day!

2. Pet Pigs: Thinking of getting a cute little pet pig to accompany you on your Parisian adventures? Thinking of naming your pig after a famous French general? You might need to rethink your choice. A law from 1953 states that it is illegal to name your pig "Napoleon" in Paris, a gesture deemed disrespectful to the famed French general.

3. Clothesline Views: If you've dreamt of hanging your laundry from your Paris apartment window, à la an old European movie, be warned: it's officially prohibited. A Parisian law insists that citizens must ensure the view from their window remains aesthetically pleasing, so your colorful clothes fluttering in the wind might get you in trouble.

4. Drones after Dark: Paris is undoubtedly a city best viewed from above, but if you're considering sending your drone skyward for a panoramic night shot, you'll need to keep it grounded. Night flying is strictly off-limits within city limits, a rule that aims to protect the privacy and security of Parisians.

5. Elephant Rights: This last one's a bit of a curiosity from the past. An old Parisian law states that it's illegal to tie your elephant to a parking meter without first paying the parking fee. A peculiar law, considering elephants are not your usual Parisian pet!

While most of these laws are not strictly enforced today, they offer a whimsical glimpse into the City of Light's rich and colorful history. So next time you're in Paris, don't forget to look beyond the grand boulevards and glittering monuments. Who knows what oddities you might stumble upon!

Your Questions Answered: Unique Parisian Experiences Off the Beaten Path

Theek, we received a fantastic question from our reader, Jane, who asked, "I'm looking for unique experiences in Paris that aren't typically found in guidebooks. Any recommendations for workshops or classes that will give me a taste of authentic French culture?"

Thanks for the great question, Jane! Paris is indeed a treasure trove of unique experiences, and it's an excellent idea to step away from the typical tourist path and delve into the city's rich cultural fabric. Here are a few suggestions:

1. French Cuisine Cooking Classes: What better way to understand French culture than by mastering its celebrated culinary arts? Schools like La Cuisine Paris and Chefsqure offer hands-on cooking classes taught by professionals. You can learn how to make classic French dishes, bake a perfect baguette, or even whip up some delectable pastries.

2. Cheese Tasting Class: If you're a cheese lover, don't miss out on a cheese-tasting class at Paroles de Fromagers. You can learn about (and sample!) a range of French cheeses and how to make and pair cheese under the guidance of expert fromagers.

3. Perfume Workshop: Join a perfume-making workshop at the famous Fragonard Parfumeur and uncover the secrets of this age-old French craft. You'll get to create your own fragrance to take home as a unique souvenir of your Paris adventure.

4. Photography Tours: For the artistically inclined, a guided photography tour can offer a new perspective on the city. Aperture Tours, for instance, provides excursions led by professional photographers that will help you capture Paris's lesser-known scenes.

Remember, one of the best ways to discover Paris is to engage with its culture. So, roll up your sleeves, open your mind, and prepare to immerse yourself in the heart of French heritage. Enjoy your adventure, Jane!

Featured French Song

Françoise Hardy "Tous les garçons et les filled"