Our Week in Paris

This week, we kicked things off with a breakfast discovery—Le Floréal, a cozy little café offering what might just be the best formule deal we’ve come across yet. For just 10 euros, you get a tartine, a buttery croissant, coffee, fresh juice, and three eggs cooked almost however you’d like.

1. (top left) Stopping for a well-deserved croissant

2. (top right) Terraces are full on sunny days!

3. (bottom left) Sliding at the playground

4. (bottom right) Breakfast at Le Floréal 

Later, we spent some time exploring playgrounds with our little Lion, soaking up the sun along the canal and in the giant sandbox at Champ de Mars. These moments remind us of the simple pleasures Paris has to offer, even for its tiniest residents. We tired him out and he fell asleep on the back of the bike while we were cycling home along the river.

We also stumbled upon a shop called Landline, run by an American couple with a passion for craftsmanship and sustainability. This boutique is a delightful collection of thoughtfully curated items—everything is either French or European-made, with a strong focus on avoiding plastics. From beautifully crafted wooden toys for kids to stylish home goods and clothing, it’s the perfect place to find unique, meaningful gifts.

Linking You to Paris

➡️ Our Pick of Traditional French Restaurants: The Michelin Guide highlights Paris's finest traditional French restaurants, showcasing timeless eateries that preserve culinary heritage with classic dishes like escargot and coq au vin. From cozy bistros to elegant brasseries, these spots offer an authentic taste of France.

➡️ The pioneering building that scandalised Paris: BBC Culture revisits the Centre Pompidou, Paris’s groundbreaking museum that shocked the city with its radical inside-out design when it opened in 1977. This article explores its controversial legacy and enduring impact on art and architecture.

➡️ 30 dos and don'ts for tourists in Paris: Lonely Planet shares key etiquette tips for tourists in Paris, covering everything from metro manners to café customs to help visitors navigate the city like locals. This guide ensures a smoother, more respectful trip in 2025.

➡️ The Best Hotel Restaurants and Bars in Paris: Eater dives into Paris’s top hotels and restaurants, offering a curated food lover’s guide with standout spots for croissants, wine, and fine dining. This updated 2025 list blends luxury stays with must-try culinary experiences.

ANNOUNCEMENT
🎉 Celebrating 100 Issues of The Paris Love Letter! 🥂

40% Off Paris Photo Prints!

This week marks a milestone we’re thrilled to share with you—our 100th issue of The Paris Love Letter! ✨ Over the past 100 weeks, we’ve explored hidden gems, cultural treasures, and the beauty of Paris together, and it’s all thanks to your incredible support.

To celebrate, we’re hosting an exclusive 40% off sale in our print shop—just for this weekend! From Friday to Sunday, enjoy our fine art photo prints at a special discount.

Browse collections like Iconic Paris, Vintage Posters, Paris Gardens, and more to bring a piece of Paris into your home. As always, shipping is on us!

Shop now and celebrate this milestone with us!

Thank you for being part of this journey. Here’s to many more stories, discoveries, and moments of Parisian magic shared together! 🥂

Warm regards,
James Christopher Knight
Author of The Paris Love Letter

VISITING PARIS
The 5th Arrondissement

The 5th arrondissement, often called the Latin Quarter, is a district I love for its blend of history and intellectual charm. I often take tour groups through this area, and it’s one of my favorite parts of any tour because it can remain relatively quiet despite being so central. Located on the left bank of the Seine, this area is packed with history and lively streets that draw both locals and visitors.

History and Main Sights

The 5th arrondissement has deep historical roots. The Panthéon, a neoclassical mausoleum built between 1758 and 1790, houses the remains of figures like Voltaire, Marie Curie, and Joséphine Baker, who was honored there for her bravery in spying for the Resistance during the Nazi occupation of Paris—her symbolic tomb is a moving tribute. Arènes de Lutèce, a 1st-century Roman amphitheater on Rue Monge, once held 17,000 spectators for gladiator fights and is now a quiet park. Ernest Hemingway lived at 74 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine from 1922 to 1923, and he often wrote at a café nearby on Place de la Contrescarpe called Les Amateurs, now renamed Café Delmas.

Art and Culture

The 5th is known for its academic vibe, with the Sorbonne University at its heart, founded in 1257, attracting students and scholars for centuries. The Grand Mosque of Paris on Place du Puits de l’Ermite, built in 1926 to honor Muslim soldiers who fought for France in World War I, has a green-tiled minaret and peaceful courtyard. The Jardin des Plantes on Rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire, established in 1635 as a royal medicinal garden, is incredible for its botanical gardens, with over 10,000 plant species, and it’s a great place for young kids as they have a small zoo with animals like red pandas and wallabies. Nearby, Place de l’Estrapade, known as the “Emily in Paris square,” gained fame from the Netflix show and is a charming spot to sit with a coffee.

Food

For a meal, La Petite Périgourdine on Rue des Écoles, which we’ve featured before (you can find it HERE), serves hearty French dishes—I love their Aligot, a creamy mix of mashed potatoes and cheese, and highly recommend it. In the Contrescarpe area, Gaston on Rue de Birague is a favorite for its casual vibe and good food. The Grand Mosque also has a restaurant offering North African dishes like tagine, which is an excellent spot for a flavorful lunch.

Rue Mouffetard is a lively market street with food stalls and shops; I like Oroyona, a creperie there, for a quick savory crepe. At Place de l’Estrapade, I wouldn’t recommend eating at “Gabriel’s” restaurant, but if you want to dine in the square, I’ve been to Café de la Nouvelle Mairie—the food is decent, not my top pick in the city, but solid enough. For a coffee break, I suggest stopping by the Shakespeare and Company Cafe, right next to the iconic Shakespeare and Company bookstore. You can browse for a new book, then sip your coffee at the café while enjoying a view of the Seine and Notre Dame across the river—a perfect spot to relax and read.

Hidden Gems

A hidden gem is the Musée de Cluny on Rue du Sommerard, a medieval museum with the “Lady and the Unicorn” tapestries, housed in a 15th-century mansion alongside Roman thermal baths. Arènes de Lutèce also feels like a hidden spot, tucked away behind residential streets, offering a glimpse into Roman Paris with its ancient stone benches and arena layout. For a unique experience, Saint Ephrem Church on Rue des Carmes hosts intimate chamber concerts under the enchanting glow of candlelight, a beautiful way to enjoy classical music in a historic setting. A couple of years ago, Laura and I attended a candlelight concert at Saint Ephrem and had a great time. We highly recommend it to anyone seeking a unique, authentic local experience.

Where to Stay

Staying in the 5th is convenient, with boutique hotels like Hôtel des Grands Hommes near the Panthéon, offering rooms with classic charm starting around 150 euros per night. Another option is Hôtel de l’Espérance, with rates averaging 200–250 euros per night. Pricing is similar to the 3rd or 4th arrondissements, slightly cheaper than the 1st or 7th, and you’re well-connected with metro lines 4, 7, and 10, including stops like Maubert-Mutualité and Cardinal Lemoine. It’s a practical base for exploring this historic area.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
The Roman Charm of Arènes de Lutèce

Of all Paris's concealed historical treasures, none impresses me quite like Arènes de Lutèce. This ancient Roman amphitheater, hiding inconspicuously in the 5th arrondissement, is my favorite “ancient” historical gem in the city.

Built in the 1st century AD when Paris was still called Lutèce, this remarkably preserved arena once hosted gladiatorial combats and theatrical performances for up to 17,000 spectators. The oval-shaped structure measured approximately 132 meters long by 100 meters wide—impressive dimensions that reflect its importance in Gallo-Roman society.

The arena was a center for various Roman entertainments. Gladiatorial contests were indeed held here, with combatants fighting each other and wild animals imported from across the empire. The space also hosted athletic competitions including wrestling matches, foot races, and other physical contests that were central to Roman culture. Actors performed theatrical works on a stage that was positioned against the eastern wall, remnants of which can still be seen today.

What makes Arènes de Lutèce truly special is how it remains hidden in plain sight. Many visitors walk past its unassuming entrance on rue Monge without realizing that beyond lies a portal to Gallo-Roman Paris. Unlike the Colosseum, there are no ticket booths or crowds—just an authentic piece of history integrated seamlessly into daily Parisian life.

The amphitheater was nearly lost to history, having been buried over centuries and partially dismantled for its stone. It was rediscovered during the construction of the rue Monge in the 1860s, and saved from complete destruction thanks to the intervention of writer Victor Hugo and other preservationists.

To experience this marvel, enter through the iron gates at 47 rue Monge or through Square Capitan. Visit on a quiet weekday morning to have this ancient wonder nearly to yourself, and imagine living in a Paris that existed two millennia ago.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Louane - JOUR 1

As we celebrate our 100th issue of Paris Love Letters, I'm drawn to Louane's "Jour 1" - a perfect reflection on beginnings. This song captures that magical moment when everything changes with a single encounter.

Like the song's celebration of day one of a love story, I can't help but think back to my own "jour un" - meeting my wife years ago. That initial spark ignited not just our relationship, but eventually my unexpected love affair with Paris.

One hundred issues later, this milestone has me marveling at how far we've come from that first day. "Jour 1" reminds us that every incredible journey - whether through love, a city, or 100 newsletters - begins with a single, often seemingly ordinary moment that changes everything.

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