OUR WEEK IN PARIS

Snapshots From Paris

Each week, I share a handful of photos that tell the story of our Paris. From quick phone snaps to more carefully composed shots, these images are little postcards of our life in Paris, inviting you to see the city through our eyes.

There’s something magical about capturing the Parisian cityscape from the river. This view, with its blend of history, architecture, and the gentle flow of the Seine, is one of my favorite perspectives to photograph.

As it gets colder in Paris, we retreat from terraces to interior spaces and trade sparkling drinks for mugs of hot chocolate. Our little lion loves visiting our neighborhood café for this hot chocolatey treat.

Guiding these wonderful ladies from the US around Paris for a day was an absolute joy. I’m grateful for the opportunity to share the beauty and magic of this city with others who genuinely appreciate it. Moments like these remind me why I love what I do—connecting people to the heart of Paris.

LINKING YOU TO PARIS

➡️ How to Celebrate a Winter Christmas in Paris: From HipParis - For those of us who did not grow up with the winter experience like me, or if you’re just a Christmas enthusiast full stop, here are some things you can do to truly embrace the winter magic of Christmas in Paris.

➡️ See Notre Dame Cathedral’s New Interior Five Years After Devastating Fire: Frim TIME - After more than five years of frenetic reconstruction work, Notre Dame Cathedral showed its new self to the world Friday, with rebuilt soaring ceilings and creamy good-as-new stonework erasing somber memories of its devastating fire in 2019.

➡️ The zinc roof restorers of Paris now have UNESCO Cultural Heritage recognition: The AP - A special spotlight is now shining on their little-noticed skills: UNESCO inscribed the zinc roof restoration techniques on its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage on Wednesday.

➡️ The 7 most incredible viewpoints in Paris: Fellow panorama lovers, I've personally visited each of these viewpoints featured by Lonely Planet, and they're absolutely worth seeking out. Add these spots to your Paris wishlist—you won't regret it!

VISITING PARIS

Visiting Paris in Winter

While summer draws the crowds, winter in Paris holds a special magic all its own. The city transforms into an intimate wonderland where locals reclaim their favorite spots, and visitors can discover a more authentic side of Parisian life.

For the perfect winter warm-up, seek out Paris's legendary hot chocolate. While tourists queue for hours at Angelina's, I'd never wait in those lines when there are so many better options around the city. You might enjoy Carette in Place des Vosges, or discover the intimate Chocolaterie Cyril Lignac in the 11th, where the rich, velvety chocolat chaud will spoil you for all others. The beauty of Paris is finding your own perfect cup of chocolate away from the tourist crowds.

When the winter chill sets in, Parisians master the art of the cozy indoor afternoon. Spend a quiet morning among the stacks at Merci Used Book Café, where you can sip freshly brewed coffee and discover old books. The Musée Carnavalet, recently renovated and free to visit, offers an intimate look at Parisian history while providing shelter from the cold. For those embracing the winter air, try ice skating at the Grand Palais or take a brisk walk through the Jardin des Tuileries when it's dressed in frost.

Winter also offers magical photo opportunities that summer visitors miss. Early morning frost creates a dreamy atmosphere in Luxembourg Gardens, while evening lights reflect magnificently off wet cobblestones in Montmartre. For a stunning winter shot, head to Square René Viviani early on a foggy morning—the view of Notre Dame emerging from the mist, with bare branches framing the scene, captures winter Paris at its most enchanting.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS

Paris' Oldest Graffiti Artist Was an 18th-Century Literary Rebel

Hidden in plain sight at 11 Place des Vosges is Paris' oldest surviving piece of graffiti - a simple carving reading "1764 NICOLAS" etched into a stone pillar. This centuries-old mark was left by Nicolas Restif de la Bretonne, a fascinating figure who roamed the streets of 18th-century Paris by night, documenting the city's underbelly in both literature and stone.

Known as "Le Griffon" (the scribbler), Restif developed a peculiar habit of wandering the darkened streets of Paris, armed with a sharp implement to carve his name and thoughts into the walls of buildings. These nocturnal adventures would later inspire his famous work "Les Nuits de Paris," providing an intimate glimpse into the city's after-dark society.

A prolific writer and printer by trade, Restif authored around 200 volumes throughout his lifetime, earning himself the nickname "the Rousseau of the gutter" for his gritty portrayals of Parisian life. His works ranged from social commentary to autobiography, including the controversial "Le Pornographe" - a text that would actually coin the term we still use today.

Though time, renovations, and Haussmann's grand redesign of Paris have erased most of Restif's wall carvings, this simple etching in the Marais still whispers his story to us today. When you run your fingers over these centuries-old marks, you're touching the same stone where this fascinating chronicler of 18th-century Paris once stood, determined to leave his mark on the city he loved. It's a small but powerful connection to one man's passionate, perhaps obsessive, relationship with the streets of Paris.

JOIE DE VIVRE

Quality French Skincare at Home

Just as French cuisine sets the global standard for gastronomy, French skincare holds a similar reverence in the beauty world. The French approach to beauty has always been about quality, simplicity, and products that deliver results without unnecessary additives or harsh chemicals.

My cousin, a New York-based esthetician experienced with the finest skincare products, discovered this dreamy night cream during her last visit to Paris - Darphin. Like many beauty professionals who visit the city, she found herself enchanted by the treasures in Parisian pharmacies. This cream became such a favorite that she asked me to send some to her from Paris!

While Parisians may rush through their evening routines just like the rest of us, we can choose to make these everyday moments a bit more special. Why not transform your nighttime skincare routine into a mini escape to Paris? Put on some French jazz, use quality French products, and let your mind wander to the city you love. It's not about creating some elaborate ritual—it's about adding small touches that connect you to Paris, even if just for a few minutes of your busy day.

PS - If you choose to bring this little piece of Paris into your life through the link above, we'll earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Your support helps keep The Paris Love Letter going and allows us to continue sharing the magic of Paris with you. And rest assured, we use it ourselves!!

A PEEK INTO HISTORY

The Birth of Paris's Arrondissements

Long before the familiar escargot (snail-shaped) pattern of Paris's arrondissements existed, the city was a maze of parishes and quarters with somewhat chaotic organization. It wasn't until January 1860, under Napoleon III and Baron Haussmann's grand transformation of Paris, that the city adopted its current system of 20 municipal districts. The reorganization began at the heart of Paris, with the 1st arrondissement centered at the Louvre, spiraling outward in a clockwise fashion to the 20th at the city's edge.

This methodical reorganization wasn't just about administrative efficiency—it fundamentally shaped the character of each neighborhood. The lower-numbered arrondissements, being closer to the center of power, naturally became home to government buildings, prestigious institutions, and wealthy residents. Meanwhile, the outer arrondissements, particularly those to the east, developed as working-class neighborhoods, welcoming artists, craftsmen, and laborers who gave these areas their distinctive creative and bohemian spirit.

The unique personality of each district emerged organically from this structure. The Marais (spanning parts of the 3rd and 4th) preserved its aristocratic mansions while evolving into a trendy artistic quarter. The Latin Quarter (5th) maintained its scholarly tradition around the Sorbonne. Montmartre (18th) transformed from a rural village into an artists' haven, while the 11th became a hub for furniture craftsmen and metalworkers, whose workshops you can still spot today.

This spiral numbering system, which might seem like just a practical way to organize the city, has become part of Paris's heart and soul. Each arrondissement tells its own story, shaped by the people who've called it home over generations. From the grand boulevards of the 8th to the village-like atmosphere of the 20th, these districts have evolved while keeping their unique charm—proof that Paris knows how to honor its past while embracing the future.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Zazie - Je Suis Un Homme

This week, we’re listening to the poetic world of Zazie with her song Je Suis Un Homme. Known for her sharp lyrics and unique voice, Zazie explores themes of humanity, consumerism, and self-reflection in this powerful track.

Released in 2007, the song pairs a haunting melody with introspective lyrics that invite listeners to ponder their place in the modern world. It perfectly blends artistry and meaning, showcasing why Zazie remains one of France’s most beloved contemporary artists.