OUR WEEK IN PARIS

Snapshots From Paris

Each week, I share a handful of photos that tell the story of our Paris. From quick phone snaps to more carefully composed shots, these images are little postcards of our life in Paris, inviting you to see the city through our eyes.

Above are a few snapshots of a recent family outing to soak up some art and culture. Our little one had a blast on the metro as we headed to watch a friend sing in a lively choir concert. The show was full of energy with songs from the Americas, and it's moments like these that remind me why I love the art scene here. If you're in Paris, you can catch the next performance on 1/30/25 at 8:00 PM—check out the bottom left image for details.

Below, I've added a photo from my latest walk through the Louvre. There's always something new to discover, even visiting the same location again, and I hope these pictures bring a bit of Parisian charm to your weekend!

LINKING YOU TO PARIS

➡️ 30 Best Things to Do in Paris, According to Locals: Travel + Leisure offers a curated list of local recommendations for exploring Paris, including unique experiences such as sampling cheese at fromageries, enjoying gourmet meals, and discovering hidden gems in the city.

➡️ It’s Zinc Bar vs. Barista in a Paris Battle of the Buzz: New York Times - The city’s traditional cafes and bistros are staking out their cultural territory in an emerging duel against highly caffeinated upstarts serving up latte art.

➡️ Outdated Paris Travel Tips (and What to Do Instead): This article revisits traditional travel advice for Paris and provides updated tips and cultural customs to enhance your trip.

➡️ Exploring Paris’ Belleville District: A Haven for Artists, Immigrants & Revolutionaries: Paris Unlocked profiles Belleville as a vibrant, culturally diverse neighborhood in northeastern Paris, known for its artistic energy, historical significance as a center of working-class culture and revolutions, and its evolving identity shaped by waves of immigration.

ANNOUNCEMENT

The Mystery Parisian's Restaurant Collection

I've got some exciting news to share - I'm teaming up with our resident Parisian food sage (you know him as the Mystery Parisian) to create something special: a restaurant guide that cuts through the noise of Instagram-worthy brunches and flavor-of-the-month hotspots. Instead, we're focusing on what really matters - those timeless Parisian establishments where exceptional food and genuine hospitality have been perfected over decades.

This isn't about where to find the trendiest avocado toast or the latest fusion experiment. It's about those cherished addresses where quality ingredients shine, where the atmosphere feels like a warm embrace, and where authentic Parisian dining culture lives on. We're talking about the places that a true Parisian - someone who lives and breathes the city's food and wine culture - would recommend to their closest friends.

While we're working on the guide, we can't wait to start sharing some of these treasured spots with you. Starting today, you'll find these carefully curated recommendations in our newsletter's Paris Cafes section.

Bon appétit!

VISITING PARIS

Consider Flying into Orly

Charles de Gaulle (CDG) Airport is notorious for being a bit of a maze, and if you're looking to avoid the usual airport chaos, you might want to consider flying into Orly instead. While I have yet to take the metro to Orly, I've heard from friends that with the new Metro Line 14 extension, getting to the city center is a breeze. It takes about 25 minutes, making it super convenient for those who want a smoother start to their Parisian adventure.

Orly is a bit smaller and quieter, which can be a real plus if you prefer a more relaxed arrival. Friends have told me it's incredibly easy to navigate, and the direct metro connection is a game-changer for reaching the heart of the city without the hassle.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS

Square du Vert-Galant - Your Peaceful Parisian Retreat

If you're looking for a slice of tranquility in the heart of Paris, Square du Vert-Galant is your go-to spot. Tucked away at the tip of Île de la Cité, this little oasis is perfect for some quiet time. Head there early in the morning, and you'll probably have the place to yourself. I love sitting right by the water under the willow tree—it’s where I had one of my first dates with Laura, but that's just a sweet side note.

I often bring my tour guests here, and they always fall for its charm. Even though it's smack dab in the middle of the city, getting there feels like you're uncovering a secret. To find your way, look for the two staircases flanking the Henri IV equestrian statue—one on each side. I've included a map below to make it even easier.

Besides being a place for quiet contemplation, Square du Vert-Galant is also a fantastic spot to share a bottle of wine. It's perfectly okay to enjoy a drink outdoors in Paris, making this the ideal setting for a relaxed afternoon with friends. Just keep in mind that during the warmer months, the afternoons and evenings can get quite crowded, as the space isn't very large.

While you're there, take in the stunning views of the Louvre and Pont des Arts. It's a spot where you can really soak in the beauty of Paris, away from the crowds (usually). So next time you're in the city, make sure to carve out a moment to experience this hidden gem for yourself.

PARIS CAFES

La Petite Périgourdine’s Timeless Appeal

Tucked away on the slopes of the Latin Quarter, near the Pantheon, sits an unassuming restaurant that tells the story of Paris' culinary evolution. What began as a humble café in 1996 has become one of the neighborhood's most reliable destinations for authentic French cuisine.

The restaurant's story is deeply intertwined with the "bougnats" - immigrants from France's Auvergne region who came to Paris in the 19th century as coal and wood merchants. "The café culture here started with the bougnats," explains our Mystery Parisian friend. "They began by providing wine alongside their coal shops, and that's how many of these cafés began."

Today, under Auvergnat ownership since 1996, La Petite Périgourdine celebrates traditional French bistro classics with an unwavering commitment to quality. One of their signature dishes, aligot, is a spectacular display of culinary craftsmanship. This isn't just mashed potatoes with cheese - it's a carefully orchestrated blend of potatoes, tomme cheese, butter, and creme fraîche that transforms into a silky, stretchy masterpiece.

"When you watch the waiter perform what looks like a magic spell," our Parisian guide describes, "they weave it, and it’s like magic, except instead of fairy dust, it's this gloriously falling aligot weaved onto your plate." The aligot here is prepared traditionally, using cheese from the Auvergne region, combined with precise amounts of butter and carefully measured garlic. The timing must be perfect for achieving that signature silky consistency that allows for the dramatic tableside presentation.

The restaurant also excels in other French classics, including their meticulously prepared steak tartare. Our guide shares an insider tip about steak tartare in Paris: While many restaurants illegally prepare it hours in advance and store it, a true test of freshness at any Paris restaurant is to ask to prepare it yourself. "If they agree to bring out a hunk of raw meat with gherkins, onions, raw egg, and parsley, that's how you know they have nothing to hide," he explains. While La Petite Périgourdine serves their tartare already prepared, they make each order fresh - a commitment to proper preparation that sets them apart in an era where many restaurants cut corners.

Despite its location in a tourist-heavy area, the restaurant maintains reasonable prices and authentic quality. The service strikes that perfect Parisian bistro balance: professional, speedy, and no-nonsense, with servers who can effectively explain the dishes in English. This professional demeanor reflects a broader French cultural attitude, which considers serving to be a proper career. Servers see themselves on equal social footing with their customers, allowing them to be both professional and confidently direct in their approach.

For visitors exploring the Latin Quarter or the Saint-Eustache area, La Petite Périgourdine offers what our Mystery Parisian calls "very good value for money" and an authentic taste of traditional French cuisine. The restaurant's proximity to the Patheon and historic educational institutions like Henri IV and Louis-le-Grand - where notable alumni, including current President Emmanuel Macron and our very own Mystery Parisian, studied - adds to its charm as a genuine piece of Parisian history.

Practical Information:
La Petite Périgourdine
Address: 39 Rue des Ecoles, 75005 Paris
Phone: 01 43 26 33 35
Website: https://www.restaurantlapetiteperigourdine.com/

Hours:
Monday - Saturday: 8:00 AM - 12:00 AM
Sunday: 9:00 AM - 12:00 AM

Location: In the heart of the Latin Quarter, near the prestigious Henri IV and Louis-le-Grand schools

Recommended Dishes:

• Aligot (the spectacular potato and cheese dish, a must-try specialty)

• Saucisse avec aligot (traditional sausage served with a house specialty, aligot)

• Steak tartare (prepared traditionally)

• Soupe à l'oignon (French onion soup)

• Basic bistro classics, including dishes with house-made mayonnaise

• The "plats du jour" (daily specials) are listed at the bottom of the menu

Our Mystery Parisian recommends: "For the real basic stuff, like soupe à l'oignon, or steak tartare, you can’t go wrong - all of these classics are fine because they are all made properly. And the aligot, definitely. Otherwise, you’ll be fine with the suggestions from the plats du jour at the bottom of the menu."

JOIE DE VIVRE

Finding Stillness in the Parisian Morning

In Paris, for some, the day begins not with a rushed coffee-to-go but with a deliberate ritual that perfectly captures what I like to think of as "l'art de vivre."

Side note: I've been gently teased in Paris for eating or drinking coffee while walking on the street, as it's not something that's commonly done here. 🤣 ☕️ 🥪

Every morning at my local café, I notice a familiar face – a woman who seems to embody this art of living. She's always there, seated at the same small table, accompanied by her faithful little dog. With her coffee cup in hand and a croissant on a proper plate, she simply... exists. No phone. No newspaper. Just the morning light, her breakfast, and the occasional passerby.

Although life in Paris can be bustling and busy, I find moments like these offer a gentle reminder to pause and savor the present. While I might call this "wasting time" back in the States, here, it's a cherished moment of "taking time."

Want to try this at home? Start small. Tomorrow morning, set your alarm 15 minutes earlier. Make your coffee or tea, put it in your favorite cup (not a travel mug!), and sit somewhere pleasant. No phones, no to-do lists. Just you and your morning contemplations. It's a tiny slice of Paris “joie de vivre” you can experience anywhere.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Alain Souchon - La vie ne vaut rien

This week's featured French song is "La vie ne vaut rien" by the beloved French singer-songwriter Alain Souchon. Known for his poetic lyrics and gentle melodies, Souchon has been a cherished figure in the French music scene for decades.

"La vie ne vaut rien," which translates to "Life is Worth Nothing," is a reflective and poignant piece that captures the simplicity and beauty of life's fleeting moments. Souchon's unique ability to weave emotion and storytelling into his music makes this song a heartfelt addition to your Parisian playlist. Enjoy the introspective journey it offers

Discover More with Paris Love Affair

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