OUR WEEK IN PARIS

Each week, I share a handful of photos that tell the story of our Paris. From quick phone snaps to more carefully composed shots, these images are little postcards of our life in Paris, inviting you to see the city through our eyes.

Despite the winter chill, the sun was shining brightly last weekend, drawing Parisians out in droves. My son, the Lion, and I took full advantage of the weather, playing soccer with our pup along the canal. Despite having four nimble feet, Nashville (the dog) isn’t that great at soccer. We enjoyed lunch outside, soaking in the atmosphere and the simple joys of a day well spent outdoors.

An unexpected encounter during Chinese New Year led us to a lively celebration in the Marais. We stumbled into a Chinese restaurant (ZG BIÁNGBIÁNG - Which was quite good!) just as a dragon performance unfolded both outside and inside the restaurant. Our Lion was a bit scared of the dragons during the performance, but the experience was unforgettable. Check out the short video I made:

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LINKING YOU TO PARIS

➡️ What to do in Paris in February: Explore Paris this February with HiP Paris's guide, featuring romantic spots for Valentine's Day and other unique events to enjoy in the City of Light.

➡️ The Cheapest Nicest Hotels in Paris: Condé Nast Traveler highlights affordable yet stylish hotels in Paris, offering comfort and charm without breaking the bank.

➡️ How many Americans and Britons are moving to France?: The Connexion reports that in 2024, the number of Americans moving to France increased, while the number of Britons relocating decreased, according to new residency card statistics. If you’re considering moving from the US to France, you’re not alone!

➡️ The Best Casual Restaurants in Paris: World of Mouth showcases the 26 best casual restaurants in Paris, featuring a diverse selection of eateries like Clamato, Septime, and Le Servan, each offering unique flavors and a relaxed dining experience.

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VISITING PARIS
The Museum of Hunting and Nature

I recently visited a fascinating museum in the Marais - the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature. It's the kind of place you might walk past without realizing what you're missing, but I'm glad I decided to step inside with my son.

What makes it interesting is how it blends historical hunting artifacts with contemporary art installations. You'll find traditional taxidermy displays that actually tell meaningful stories about wildlife and conservation, alongside modern pieces that offer fresh perspectives on our relationship with nature.

Even as someone who doesn’t hunt, I found the museum's approach engaging. It's not just about hunting - it's about exploring humanity's complex relationship with the natural world through both historical and artistic lenses.

If you're curious to visit, you'll find it at 62 Rue des Archives, open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 AM to 6 PM. Whether you're a local or just visiting Paris, it's worth adding to your list - especially if you enjoy museums that go beyond the conventional.

PARIS CAFES
Au Petit Riche Endures as Living Parisian History

Situated in the 9th arrondissement, Au Petit Riche is Paris's oldest continuously operating restaurant, serving guests since 1854. While Le Procope often claims this title through clever marketing, historical records tell a different story - Le Procope began as a café, not a restaurant, and has seen multiple closures and reinventions over the centuries.

What makes Au Petit Riche particularly special is its connection to the old Paris Opera House, which once stood just around the corner before a devastating fire led to its relocation.

The building itself holds another fascinating piece of Parisian history - before becoming a restaurant, it served as the horse stables for the Rothschild family, who owned a grand townhouse directly across the street. Where diners now enjoy their meals, horses, and carriages once waited for one of Europe's most influential families.

The restaurant's historic significance extends beyond its longevity. The interior, with its series of private dining rooms upstairs, tells the story of 19th-century Parisian dining culture. "These private rooms were essential for proper society," our Mystery Parisian explains. "Ladies wouldn't dine publicly in those days - it simply wasn't done. That's why most early restaurants had private rooms."

Today, these dining cabins remain available for rent, accommodating groups of various sizes. "It's actually quite reasonable," our guide notes. "You can rent these authentic historic rooms for business lunches or private gatherings, and they're organized just as they were in the past."

The restaurant has maintained its specialization in Loire Valley wines, boasting an impressive collection of about 300 different references from the region. This dedication to regional wines makes Au Petit Riche a destination for wine enthusiasts seeking to explore the Loire Valley's offerings.

The menu focuses on traditional French brasserie fare. While perhaps not as refined as smaller, home-style restaurants, it offers reliable classics prepared in the traditional manner. The onion soup, in particular, stands out for its generous use of onions and proper preparation. And the quenelle, a delicate pike fish dumpling in creamy sauce that's a hallmark of traditional French cuisine, proved to be a delightful first-time experience.

Au Petit Riche represents a particular moment in Parisian history - the Belle Époque period that stretched from Napoleon III's reign until World War I. During this era, Paris was truly the world's cultural capital, setting global standards for fashion, cuisine, and lifestyle. While the restaurant wasn't among the most luxurious establishments of its time, it perfectly embodies the period's accessible elegance.

Practical Information:
Au Petit Riche
Address: 25 Rue Le Peletier, 75009 Paris
Phone: 01 47 70 68 68
Website: www.restaurant-aupetitriche.com

Hours:
Open seven days a week
Lunch: 12:00 PM - 2:00 PM
Dinner: 7:00 PM - 10:30 PM

THEN & NOW
The Conciergerie Through Time

Towering (literally) majestically on the Seine's edge, the Conciergerie tells a tale of two vastly different Parisian worlds. What began as a glittering royal palace, where medieval kings held court and celebrated in grand style, later transformed into something far more somber - a revolutionary prison where Marie Antoinette spent her final days.

Looking at the photograph from 1900, you can see how the building's imposing Gothic towers have long dominated this corner of the Île de la Cité. The old black-and-white image captures a scene that feels frozen in time: horse-drawn carriages and pedestrians crossing the busy Pont au Change, vendors with their carts lining the bridge's elegant balustrades, and the eternal Seine flowing beneath it all.

The Conciergerie's transformation from palace to prison mirrors Paris's own revolutionary journey. Its walls witnessed both royal festivities and revolutionary justice, making it one of the city's most compelling storytellers. While tourists now roam its vaulted halls with cameras and guidebooks, you can still feel the weight of history in its medieval kitchens and prison cells.

Today, as part of the larger Palais de la Cité complex, the Conciergerie continues to draw visitors with its dual identity. Its massive stone walls and pointed towers remain much as they were centuries ago, offering a tangible connection to Paris's past. Whether you're a history enthusiast or simply curious about Paris's architectural heritage, the Conciergerie provides a fascinating window into the city's journey from monarchy to republic.

A PEEK INTO HISTORY
The Lost Opera House of Rue Le Peletier

Walking down Rue Le Peletier today, you'd never guess that this street once hummed with the excitement of Paris's most prestigious cultural venue. For over 50 years, the Salle Le Peletier was where Paris's elite gathered to see and be seen, where the magic of French Grand Opera unfolded, and where the ethereal movements of Romantic ballet first captivated audiences.

The old opera house stood just around the corner from where Au Petit Riche still operates today. Its story ended dramatically one night in 1873 when a devastating fire swept through the neighborhood, burning the opera house to the ground. This disaster accelerated the completion of what we now know as the Palais Garnier, which opened its doors in 1875.

The loss of Salle Le Peletier was more than just the destruction of a building. It marked the end of an era when opera was more intimate when performers and audience shared a closer connection. The new Palais Garnier, while magnificent, would bring a different, more grandiose style to Paris's opera scene.

The neighborhood still holds echoes of this history. Restaurants like Au Petit Riche, which served the opera's wealthy patrons, survived to tell the tale. While the flames may have claimed the physical structure, they couldn't erase the cultural legacy that helped shape Paris's reputation as the world's cultural capital.

Today, modern buildings stand where the old opera house once captivated audiences, but the artistic spirit of the neighborhood endures, preserved in the historic establishments that witnessed this transformative period in Parisian cultural history.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Tim Dup - Place Espoir

Tim Dup, a talented singer-songwriter hailing from Rambouillet, France, has been making a mark with his introspective and poetic style. His song 'Place Espoir' considers themes of hope, longing, and the search for meaning in everyday life. It's a track that resonates with anyone who's ever felt the pull of the future while grappling with the present.

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