Our Week in Paris

Each week, I share a handful of photos. These images are like little postcards of our life in Paris (or just outside of it), inviting you to see the city (or the countryside - this week) through our eyes. I also include links to places we've visited and think might be worth trying, offering you a taste of authentic and often hidden experiences.

This week, we traded Paris for countryside charm, escaping to Urzy near Nevers in Burgundy for a couple of days. We discovered La Table des Bordes, a delightful restaurant on the grounds of Le Château des Bordes, where we had a fantastic lunch menu for just 18 Euros each, indulged in Burgundy wines, and enjoyed a view of the Château’s historic turrets.

Back in Paris, I discovered El Cartel del Taco in the 10th arrondissement this week, and it served up the best tacos I’ve had since leaving California. They were paired with spicy homemade salsa. While I know you’re probably not coming to Paris for Mexican food, but if the craving strikes, now you know where to go!

Linking You to Paris

➡️ The 21 Best Bakeries in Paris: Condé Nast Traveler's "The 21 Best Bakeries in Paris" highlights the city's top spots for pastries, bread, and confections, from classic French patisseries to innovative bakeries. Perfect for anyone craving croissants, éclairs, or creative treats, this guide is a must-read for pastry lovers exploring Paris.

➡️ How to Do Paris Like a French Girl: From New York Magazine, A guide to a weekend in Paris, France, including the best areas to stay in, restaurants, and things to do.

➡️ 50 Years of Travel Tips: The Technium’s "50 Years of Travel Tips" by Kevin Kelly distills decades of travel wisdom into practical advice for meaningful journeys. From packing light to embracing spontaneity, this guide inspires authentic and enriching travel experiences.

➡️ Paris Is Having a Breakfast Awakening: Food & Wine's "Best Breakfasts in Paris" explores the city’s evolving breakfast culture, spotlighting unique spots for everything from traditional French pastries to creative, globally-inspired morning meals. This guide is perfect for discovering the best places to start your day in Paris.

VISITING PARIS
Embarking on a Parisian Spiral of 20 Arrondissements

See Our collection of Paris Maps in our print shop

Paris feels like a patchwork of tiny worlds, doesn’t it? That’s the magic of its arrondissements—20 distinct districts spiraling from the city’s heart. So many of you have asked me to dig into what makes each one special, and I’m excited to do just that. Starting next Friday, we’ll take a 20-week journey through the arrondissements, uncovering hidden cafés, historic stories, and the essence of each neighborhood.

Paris wasn’t always this way. Pre-1860, it was a medieval maze—charming but chaotic. Then Baron Haussmann swept in under Napoleon III, “bulldozing" the old for elegant boulevards and the 20-arrondissement layout we know today. That design locked the city’s core within the Périphérique, the ring road circling it like a moat. It’s held steady ever since, though the real Paris sprawls far beyond into vibrant suburbs—much like imagining New York as just Manhattan. Crazy, right? Now, Grand Paris is redefining the edges with the Grand Paris Express—200 kilometers of new metro lines and 68 fresh stations, mostly outside the Périphérique.

Each arrondissement has its own flavor—the 1st with its Louvre glamour, the 7th with the Eiffel Tower yet a sleepy, old-money vibe from its wealthy settlers, the 20th with its multicultural grit. Neighborhoods shift even more, like the Latin Quarter’s bookish soul in the 5th versus Saint-Germain’s artsy charm in the 6th.

Yes, Paris’s perimeter is expanding, but those 20 arrondissements remain the city’s iconic markers. This series will zero in on them—just the 20—peeling back their layers week by week, as you’ve requested. Next Friday, we start with the 1st, the historic core.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Hôtel Particulier Montmartre

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre is a boutique hotel in the 18th arrondissement, hidden in the quiet backstreets, steps from the bustling Place du Tertre. Behind an unmarked gate on a cobblestone lane, this 19th-century mansion opens to a lush, secluded courtyard—a peaceful retreat far from Paris’s tourist throngs. Picture velvet seating beneath ivy-draped walls, where sunlight filters through ancient trees, and a hidden bar serves crisp local wines and artisanal cocktails, perfect for a romantic afternoon, breakfast, or dinner.

As a hotel, you can stay in its charming rooms, or visit to book dinner at the courtyard or host private parties in this elegant setting—reservations are required (check www.hotelparticulier.com). This well-known gem draws both Parisians and tourists, making it a discreet Paris escape for savoring a hidden part of Montmartre.

PARIS CAFES
Paris Cafés to Steer Clear Of
(Despite Their Allure)

Beware the siren call of those flower-draped café facades! A trend has taken root—restaurants and cafés adorning their exteriors with lush, artificial blooms to lure you in for that perfect Instagram shot. We rarely make “anti-recommendations,” but today, we feel the dire need to save you. 😜

Take Café La Favorite in Le Marais (which I visited for “research” purposes a few months ago), with its eye-catching fake flower displays, or Maison Sauvage in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, both of which boast about 3.5-star ratings. These spots dazzle with vibrant, photogenic exteriors, drawing tourists and Instagram enthusiasts. But here’s the catch: behind those pretty petals, the food often disappoints with overpriced, underwhelming dishes. These restaurants prioritize aesthetics over taste.

Web buzz reveals these places, like Pink Mamma (owned by Big Mamma, a restaurant group pushing trendy concepts with savvy marketing), skimp on quality, focusing on Instagram appeal rather than chefs working with the best ingredients.

Skip the temptation of these floral traps, and seek out the quieter, authentic bistros where the cuisine (and real charm) shines. This floral marketing trend has inspired the “Mystery Parisian” and me to develop an authentic restaurant guide to steer visitors to the better, though less-known places. It’ll be released soon, so stay tuned!

THEN & NOW
Le Pont Neuf, Pointe de l’Île de la Cité, and Square du Vert-Galant

Looking at Ernest Louis Désiré Le Deley’s 1901-1904 photograph of Le Pont Neuf—Paris’s oldest bridge—arching gracefully over the Seine toward l’Île de la Cité and Square du Vert-Galant, I’m struck by how little has changed in over 120 years.

My snapshot captures the same iconic bridge, now with a weeping willow shading the end of the Square, with the same historic structures still standing proudly, largely untouched by modern redevelopment.

JOIE DE VIVRE
Œufs à la Coque avec Mouillettes

There’s something magical about the simplicity of French cuisine. It’s all about taking humble ingredients and turning them into something elegant and satisfying. One of my favorite breakfast treats—and a classic French delight—is "œufs à la coque avec mouillettes." This dish, which translates to "soft-boiled eggs with soldiers," is as comforting as it is charming. You can bring a little French flair to your mornings!

What You’ll Need

• Fresh eggs (preferably free-range for the best flavor)

• Slices of your favorite bread (baguette or rustic country bread works beautifully)

• Butter (and optional sea salt or jam for extra flavor)

Step-by-Step Directions

1. Prepare the Eggs
   Bring a pot of water to a gentle boil. Carefully lower your eggs into the water using a spoon to avoid cracking. Cook the eggs for about 3 minutes for a perfectly soft-boiled yolk. If you prefer your yolk slightly firmer, you can add 30 seconds to the cooking time, but the magic is in the runny yolk.

2. Toast the Bread
   While the eggs are cooking, slice your bread into thin strips, about the width of a finger. Toast them until they’re golden and crisp. The crunchier the better—it’s all about creating the perfect contrast to the creamy yolk.

3. Butter the Soldiers
   Once toasted, spread a generous layer of butter on the bread strips. For a little extra indulgence, sprinkle a pinch of sea salt or add a swipe of jam.

4. Serve and Dip
   Place your eggs in egg cups (or a small bowl if you don’t have one). Gently crack and remove the top shell to expose the yolk. Dip your buttery bread soldiers into the warm yolk and savor each bite. It’s the perfect combination of textures and flavors.

Here’s a tutorial I found on YouTube. It’s in French, but the visuals tell you all you need to know.

The next time you’re in the mood for something simple yet special, give "œufs à la coque avec mouillettes" a try. It’s a little taste of France that you can enjoy right at home. Bon appétit!

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Marion Roch - Achille

This week, let Marion Roch’s “Achille” touch your soul with its tender, playful energy. This 2024 single, inspired by her work with children with disabilities, celebrates a unique child’s joy and lessons—perfect for reflecting on life’s quiet wonders.

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