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- 🇫🇷 💌 The Paris Love Letter #96
🇫🇷 💌 The Paris Love Letter #96
The 1st Arrondissement + Passage du Perron (Palais Royal) + Place de Valois + Gus - pourquoi pas ft. Les Frangines

©️ 2024 James Christopher Knight
In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter
Our Week In Paris: Our Adventures in Paris
Linking You To Paris: Links to Helpful & Fun Articles About Paris & Travel
Announcement: Photo Workshop in Paris
Visiting Paris: The 1st Arrondissement
Paris Hidden Gems: Passage du Perron and the Arcades of Palais Royal
Then & Now: Place de Valois
Featured French Song: Gus - pourquoi pas ft. Les Frangines

Our Week in Paris
Each week, I share a handful of photos. These images are like little postcards of our life in Paris, inviting you to see the city through our eyes. I also include links to places we've visited and think might be worth trying, offering you a taste of authentic and hidden experiences in Paris.

©️ 2025 James Christopher Knight
(top left) Classic Parisian street near Place de la RĂ©publique
(top right) Morning walk along the canal with the pup
(bottom left) HĂ´pital-Saint-Louis Garden
(bottom right) Pont d'Arcole and HĂ´tel de Ville
This week in Paris, the sun finally decided to stick around, and it’s been a welcome change. There’s something about the city in the sunshine—it just feels lighter, like it’s shaking off the winter chill.
I’ve been out and about, making the most of the good weather to gather photos for a new guide I’m putting together. It’s based on my tour through the heart of Paris, focusing on the islands, and I can’t wait to share it with you soon.

Along the Seine from Île Saint-Louis while walking my tour route in the morning. ©2025 James Christopher Knight
Here’s a Google pin of where I shot the black and white photo: Google Pin

Linking You to Paris
➡️ What to do in Paris in March: HiP Paris highlights the charm of early spring in Paris, with longer days, fewer crowds, and vibrant cultural events like the Carnaval de Paris, art exhibitions, and musical performances.
➡️ The 28 Best Cafés in Paris: Condé Nast Traveler highlights 28 of the best cafés in Paris, showcasing a mix of classic and modern spots that reflect the city’s thriving specialty coffee culture. I'm especially proud to see Le Peloton Café on this list, owned by the same team behind the bike company I work for. Their minimalist space focuses on cycling and serves some of the best coffee in the city—something I wholeheartedly agree with!
➡️ Flying in 2025? Here’s how to find the cheapest flights: National Geographic debunks outdated tips and shares expert advice on booking affordable airfare, including strategies like using booking windows, setting flight alerts, and being flexible with travel dates. Perfect for planning your next Paris trip!
➡️ The Best Hotels in Paris, From Five-Star Grande Dames to Design-Forward Boutiques: Vogue curates a list of Paris’s most stunning accommodations, from grand historic palaces to chic boutique retreats. Each hotel offers a unique Parisian charm, luxurious amenities, and prime locations across the city.

ANNOUNCEMENT
Join Us for a Photo Workshop in Paris!
I’m thrilled to announce an upcoming photography workshop this May, led by my incredibly talented friend, Zaman. He’s the mastermind behind the lens for this experience, and if you’ve seen his work, you know you’re in for something special.
As for me, I’ll be guiding the group through Paris, sharing my favorite spots, hidden gems, and a few stories along the way. Together, we’ll explore the city’s most photogenic corners, from iconic landmarks to off-the-beaten-path treasures. Whether you’re a seasoned photographer or just starting out, this workshop offers the perfect mix of inspiration, learning, and adventure.
Spots are limited, so if this sounds like your kind of experience, be sure to check out all the details and sign up here:

VISITING PARIS
The 1st Arrondissement
Where Paris Began Its Story

When you walk through Paris, you're strolling through centuries of history and the 1st Arrondissement is where Paris's grandest dreams have taken physical form. As I wandered its elegant streets on my last visit, I couldn't help but feel I was experiencing the essence of what makes Paris magical.
The Heart of the City
The Seine curves gracefully around this compact district, creating a natural frame for some of the city's most famous landmarks. When Parisians speak of "le premier," they often do so with a mixture of pride and practicality. "It's where I take visitors when they first arrive," my Parisian friend told me, "but I rarely go there without a purpose."
What makes this arrondissement special is how it balances magnificent monuments with everyday Parisian life. In the early morning, you’ll find local businesspeople rushing to offices, tourists gathering for museum openings, and street cleaners washing down the iconic cobblestones before another day begins.
A Walk Through History
The 1st has witnessed Paris transform from a medieval city to a modern metropolis. When you stand in the courtyard of the Louvre, you're standing where kings once lived. The museum itself holds over 38,000 objects spanning human history, yet it started as a 12th-century fortress.
Nearby, the Tuileries Garden offers a peaceful respite, its perfectly manicured lawns and tree-lined paths designed to showcase French formal garden techniques. On sunny days, Parisians and visitors alike lounge in the iconic green chairs scattered around the fountains, watching children sail toy boats on the ponds—a tradition that has continued for generations.
Who Calls It Home?
"Nobody actually lives in the 1st," joked a Parisian colleague, though that's not entirely true. With just over 17,000 residents, it's one of the least populated arrondissements, but those who do call it home tend to be well-established. Elegant apartments overlook the Palais Royal gardens, where residents can enjoy the tranquility of the historic courtyard in the heart of the city.
The district is primarily populated by luxury hotels, government offices, and high-end retail spaces. Wealthy international investors often own apartments they visit only occasionally, contributing to what some locals call "the museum effect"—beautiful but sometimes lacking the vibrant community feel found in other neighborhoods.

Palais Royal
Beyond the Obvious Landmarks
While the Louvre and Tuileries deserve attention, there are treasures here that many visitors miss:
The covered passages near Palais Royal offer a glimpse into 19th-century Parisian shopping culture. Galerie Vivienne, with its mosaic floors and glass ceiling, feels like returning to a bygone era.
Place VendĂ´me, with its austere octagonal design and towering central column, represents Napoleon's imperial ambitions and now houses the world's most prestigious jewelers.
For a different perspective, descend into the Forum des Halles, a controversial subterranean shopping complex built where Paris's central market once stood, earning this area a nickname, “The Belly of Paris.”

Place VendĂ´me
A Feast for the Senses
The 1st arrondissement offers culinary experiences ranging from humble to heavenly. The district hosts some of the city's most storied dining establishments alongside hidden gems tucked into quiet corners away from the tourist crowds.
For a truly Parisian experience, pick up provisions from the gourmet shops along rue Montorgueil—a vibrant market street bustling with fromageries, boulangeries, and wine merchants. With your picnic assembled, find a quiet spot along the Seine's quayside, which becomes Paris's communal living room in summer, with impromptu gatherings continuing well into the evening.
When dining out in the 1st, you might encounter historic brasseries dating back generations, where businesspeople gather for long lunches over classic dishes. Or discover intimate wine bars where knowledgeable sommeliers introduce lesser-known regional varieties to appreciative regulars.
Hidden Stories
The history here goes deeper than official plaques might suggest:
Pont Neuf (ironically meaning "New Bridge") has stood since 1607, making it Paris's oldest bridge. Its construction revolutionized city design by including sidewalks—the first in Paris to protect pedestrians from mud and horse traffic.
The tucked-away Place Dauphine on Île de la Cité feels like a village within the city. It’s one of my favorite “squares” in Paris. Triangular in shape and lined with restaurants, most of which are overpriced for the mediocre food they serve. However, there’s one worth experiencing - Restaurant Paul. It’s been around for more than a hundred years and serves a traditional French menu. I recommend sitting on the terrace to enjoy the ambiance of Place Dauphine when the weather allows.
Filmmakers have long been drawn to the 1st's photogenic qualities. When Woody Allen needed to capture the romance of Paris for "Midnight in Paris," he naturally turned to these timeless streets, as did Ron Howard for "The Da Vinci Code."

Place Dauphine ©️ 2024 James Christopher Knight
The Parisian Perspective
My friend Thomas, who grew up in Paris's 15th Arrondissement, summed it up like this: "The 1st is Paris putting on its best clothes and jewelry. It's magnificent, it's essential, but it's not where we live our everyday lives. Still, when I need to remember why I love this city, I go for a walk along the Seine in the 1st, and I fall in love with Paris all over again."
As we begin our journey through Paris's arrondissements, the 1st provides the perfect starting point—not just numerically, but as the historical and cultural foundation upon which the rest of the city has built its identity. Next week, we'll explore the 2nd Arrondissement, where commerce and creativity have long intertwined in fascinating ways.

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PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Passage du Perron and the Arcades of Palais Royal

Palais Royal ©️ 2025 James Christopher Knight
In the 1st arrondissement of Paris, Passage du Perron is a lesser-known passage that invites you to step back in time. This small, covered arcade, stretching about 30 meters from Galerie de Beaujolais to 9 Rue de Beaujolais, is part of the historic Palais-Royal quarter. Its old-world appeal is tied to its literary history—Colette, the celebrated French writer known for Gigi, lived nearby from 1927 until her death in 1954, with a plaque marking her residence at 9 Rue de Beaujolais. The passage’s narrow, covered design and quiet atmosphere make it a perfect spot to escape the city’s hustle and connect with a slice of Parisian heritage.
The real joy, however, lies in exploring the broader arcades of Palais Royal that surround the gardens. Built in the late 18th century under architect Victor Louis, these elegant covered walkways were once a bustling hub of commerce and social life, featuring shops and cafes. They offer a fascinating glimpse into Paris’s past, reflecting the Arcade Era. Historically, the arcades had a lively and controversial side—during the 18th and early 19th centuries, they were known for prostitution, with women working and living above the shops, adding an intriguing layer to their story.

Passage du Perron ©️ 2025 James Christopher Knight
As you stroll, you’ll encounter cultural highlights. The Theatre du Palais-Royal, located at 38 Rue de Montpensier, has been a stage for performances since 1783, hosting legends like Molière and modern works like Edmond by Alexis Michalik. Nearby, Le Grand Véfour at 17 Rue de Beaujolais offers a taste of fine dining, established in 1784 and boasting two Michelin stars, though it’s a splurge with lunch menus starting around 57 euros.
Whether you’re drawn by Colette’s legacy, the architectural beauty, or the cultural offerings, the arcades of Palais Royal are a hidden gem worth discovering. Passage du Perron serves as a delightful entry point, but the joy lies in wandering the passages, soaking in their history, and uncovering the quieter side of this iconic Parisian landmark.

THEN & NOW
Place de Valois

Place de Valois, Then & Now
Here’s a "Then & Now" look at Place de Valois in Paris’s 1st arrondissement. In 1906, the square featured an ice cream and candy shop, as seen with the "Glacier” and “Confiseur" signs on the corner, alongside an advertising agency. Horse-drawn carriages and a few pedestrians fill the scene, giving a snapshot of daily life in early 20th-century Paris.
Today, Place de Valois is a pedestrian-only spot with a calmer feel. The old shops have made way for modern bistros, including Le Bistrot Valois—though I haven’t been, and its Google reviews are at 3.9 stars, so it’s decent but not a must-visit. The historic buildings still stand, blending the past with a quiet retreat near Palais-Royal.

Place de Valois ©️ 2025 James Christopher Knight

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Gus - Pourquoi pas ft. Les Frangines
After a beautiful week of sunshine in Paris, I've been dreaming about summer days ahead. This song perfectly captures that feeling of possibility that comes with warmer weather.
"Pourquoi Pas" by Gus featuring Les Frangines is a gentle, uplifting track that asks all those "why" questions about chance encounters and unexpected connections. The lyrics wonder about life's coincidences - "Why were you born here? Why was I born there? Why did you smile at me?" - before concluding that sometimes we don't need to understand everything: "No need to know why or how, life surprises us and teaches us to follow where the wind blows."
The music video was filmed throughout Paris, showing the city's streets, rooftops, and everyday moments. If you're missing Paris, it's a lovely window into the city.
I especially love the chorus with its simple question: "Pourquoi pas?" (Why not?). It feels like the perfect sentiment for spring - a time of new beginnings and taking chances. When the sunshine returns after months of gray skies, anything seems possible.

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